I hope it's worthwhile.Ħ06 is a Woodard Schumacher transformer. Thank you so much in advance for your help. I’ve attached a pic to show my transformer. I wish all manufacturers followed the same color code convention, but it seems like the wild west with transformers. There’s a black and white conductor, but I don’t think the same color code applies with transformer primaries. I can always do trial and error, but errors can be ugly in this sort of application.ĭoes anyone have any info on what the different striped wires could be on the primary side? If I followed the convention on power cords, black is hot (+) and white is neutral. The problem with that is that I seem to have several wires on the primary side and I don’t really know which to put a voltage through. So the next action for me is to put a voltage through the primary and start identifying the secondary winding voltages. I know the transformer I have is definitely not what that stamp says it is. Search results say that this is the output transformer of a fender hotrod deluxe. The stamping on the bell reads: B-050438 EIA606–616. I wanted to see if I can use this for a new build, but I’m having a little trouble identifying this transformer. I don’t really have any info on what amp it came from because it was a homebrew amp that was poorly put together and dangerous to use.

I looked to see if there are any other threads on this topic to avoid beating any dead horses.

I see the MMB grounds one side of the filaments like an old Champ does, you can do that without using the artificial centertap I mentioned, but an improved implementation (as far as reducing hum goes) would be to run the filaments balanced, with the artificial. The two white leads are your 240V primary connections.As mentioned, you will need to add an artificial centertap connection to ground through two 100 ohm resistors. The two green leads are for your filaments.The two red leads will need to go to the AC input connections of the bridge rectifier, which you will need to add.The two brown leads should be taped off individually, and not used.350VAC through a bridge rectifier will produce a higher DC voltage than the stock Fender PT, but you mentioned you're going to use 6L6s with it, so that shouldn't be much of a problem. It also has an unneeded 40V winding, and will require external 100 ohm artificial center tap resistors for the heater winding. Your new PT is not really what I'd call 'suitable'! It supports a bridge rectifier only, not the full wave with centertap ground found in the MMB.

Old power transformer wire color code